Pankow

Population: 336,441
Sub-districts: 13
Prenzlauer Berg
Weißensee
Blankenburg
Heinersdorf
Karow
Stadtrundsiedlung Malchow
Pankow
Blankenfelde
Buch
Französisch Buchholz
Niederschönhausen
Rosenthal
Wilhelmsruh


Weißensee and its Bertolt Brecht-crumbs
This Pankow neighbourhood is pleasant but quiet. For a bit of mild rubbernecking why not chase one of Germany's greats.

From 1949-1953 the highly influential, often controversial, socialist poet and playwright Bertolt Brecht lived in the northeast of the city. Allegedly his house on Berliner Allee 185 is now a school and also a Marxist sleeper cell – something he would approve of – and yet, in August 2014, it merely appears to be a slowly flaking residential house split into flats. Opposite is an Evangelical Church awash with trimmed flowerbeds and cherry blossom trees. Three doors down the road sits the delightfully seedy-looking, abandoned and dilapidated, Cafe Sin. Above this former bar is a colourful mural dedicated to the playwright, a painted interpretation of Brecht's short poem 'The Cherry Thief'.


Keep on past Cafe Sin and take a right into the Weißensee park. Definitely greener than it is white, what Weißer See (White Lake) lacks in cleanliness it more than makes up for in convenience. The park also hosts a seasonal and inexpensive open-air cinema.


The Brecht thread can then be resumed by hopping onto the #12 Tram towards Mitte/Am Kupfergraben. Its route snakes through the scenester and family-friendly Prenzlauer Berg and on into the Bezirk of Mitte. Get off at Oranienburger Tor and head north towards Chausseestraße 125, where Brecht lived with his wife – the German actress Helene Weigel – from 1953 to his death on the 14th August 1956. Their flat can be visited and a large collection of Brecht's manuscripts can also be viewed in what is now a small museum focused on the writer. South from the tramstop is the stage the writer founded, Das Berliner Ensemble, still considered today a forerunner in German-language productions. Finally, grab a beer on the terrace at Brecht's rather pricey restaurant just behind the theatre, look out onto the River Spree, and raise a glass to both yours and his efforts.



Weißensee / Weißer See, 13086 Pankow
Tram: M4, M13 Berliner Allee/Indira-Gandhi-Straße
visitberlin.de/en/feature/weissensee

Brechts Haus 1949-1953
Berliner Allee 185, 13088 Pankow
Tram: 12 Falkenberger Str./Berliner Allee

Brechts Haus 1953-1956
Chausseestraße 125, 10115 Mitte
Tram: 12 Oranienburger Tor
adk.de/de/archiv/gedenkstaetten/gedenkstaetten-brecht-weigel.htm

Das Berliner Ensemble/Das Theater am Schiffbauerdamm
Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1, 10117 Mitte
Tram: 12 Oranienburger Tor
berliner-ensemble.de/index


Brechts Restaurant
Schiffbauerdamm 6-7, 10117 Mitte
Tram: 12 Oranienburger Tor
Open: Daily, 11.30-00.30
brechts.de/en/

Other Sites of Interest 
Prenzlauer Berg is both a favourite of the scenester and the colloquially known 'macchiato mothers' – or 'soccer mums' as they're known in the States. This Berg is also home to my favourite Mexican Imbiss, Maria Bonita Mexican Bistro
Danziger Straße 33, 10435 Pankow
Tram: M10 Husemann Strasse
Open: Daily, 12.00-23.00 (Sundays 'til 22.00)
mariabonitaberlin.wordpress.com

and also my favourite bar in the whole of the city. A wonderfully frenetic and ceaseless juggernaut known as Dr Pong
Eberwalder Straße 21, 10437 Pankow
Tram: M10 Eberswalder Straße
Open: Daily, 20.00-Late (Sundays from 19.00)
drpong.net

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